Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires isn’t part of Patagonia, but for many travellers, it’s the entry point before heading south. Even though our focus is usually on nature-based travel, we were pleasantly surprised by the city. It’s vibrant, modern, full of life, and felt incredibly safe to explore, even as two budget-conscious, introverted travellers.

That said, costs have skyrocketed in the past year, making the city much more expensive than we expected. Here’s everything we learned during our stay.

Getting from the Airport to the City Centre

Buenos Aires has two airports:

• Ezeiza International Airport (EZE): the main international hub, located far from the city centre.

• Jorge Newbery Airport (AEP): the smaller, more centrally located domestic airport.

We landed at AEP, which made things much easier. A ride to the centre with Uber cost around 10,000 ARS. Compared to many other large cities, this was still a decent price for airport transport.

Where We Stayed

We stayed at Hostel Downtown Las Morenas. It was… not our favorite experience.

• The building felt run-down and in urgent need of renovation.

• There weren’t enough bathrooms, resulting in frequent lines.

• The kitchen was tiny and poorly equipped.

• And the overall vibe, from both staff and guests, was just kind of weird.

While the price was low (~7 USD per person/night), we wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re truly desperate to save cash.

SIM Card Saga (Part 2)

After our first sim card struggles in Patagonia, I finally managed to get a Claro data pack in Buenos Aires.

• Visit a Claro store or a kiosko to load money onto your SIM.

• My prepaid card only allowed up to 5,000 ARS top-up, but it was enough for a week.

• Be cautious: Claro tourist SIMs at official stores cost up to 25,000 ARS, not worth it if you can make do with a local prepaid setup.

Make sure to activate your SIM first via the Claro website before topping it up.

What to do in Buenos Aires

Despite being a huge metropolis, Buenos Aires offers several peaceful escapes from the chaos of downtown.

• Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur: A surprisingly large ecological reserve right on the city’s edge. You can spot freshwater turtles, peposaka ducks, and plenty of other bird species while strolling through quiet trails. Highly recommended for fellow nature lovers.
• El Ateneo Grand Splendid: A theatre turned into a bookstore, and yes, it’s as stunning as it sounds. Even if you don’t buy a book, it’s worth a visit for the architecture and vibe alone.
• Cementerio de la Recoleta: We were interested in visiting, but the $16 USD entry fee was just too much for us. A shame, but we chose to skip it.
• Strolling Along Río Dique: A really nice area to walk through, old warehouses have been turned into modern cafés, restaurants, and bars, offering a fresh contrast between the old and the new.

Final Thoughts

While Buenos Aires wasn’t initially high on our must-see list, it ended up being a surprisingly enjoyable part of our Argentina trip. Yes, prices are high, and our hostel experience wasn’t great, but the city’s character, safety, and green spaces made it more than worth the stop.

If you’re passing through on your way to Patagonia, take a couple of days to explore.