Sun Moon Lake

Sun Moon Lake is one of those places in Taiwan that every travel blog and guidebook insists you have to visit, and honestly, they’re not wrong. It’s one of the most well-known weekend trips in the country, and for good reason. The lake’s name comes from its shape: the east side resembles a sun, while the west side looks like a crescent moon. Surrounded by misty mountains and dotted with temples and trails, it’s an incredibly peaceful escape from city life.

While it’s definitely a popular tourist destination, there’s still plenty of natural beauty and calm to be found if you plan your visit right. Here’s how to make the most of your trip, with everything from transport tips to itinerary suggestions (and a few honest notes about what’s worth skipping).

How to Get to Sun Moon Lake

Getting to Sun Moon Lake is actually not that complicated, though the first time figuring it out might feel like a puzzle. While you can also head there directly from Taipei or Alishan Forest, the easiest and most common way is from Taichung, since that’s where most buses depart.

The main connection is the Bus 6670, also called the Sun Moon Lake Tourist Shuttle Bus, which runs between Taichung and Sun Moon Lake (and back again).

How to Reserve Seats

If you want to guarantee yourself a seat (especially on weekends or holidays), it’s possible to book seats online up to two weeks in advance. Here’s how it works:

1. Create an account on the Nantou Bus website https://ntbus.welcometw.com (the company that operates this line).

2. Book your seats, you can reserve between 1-4 seats at a time.

3. For a return trip, you’ll need to make two separate bookings (one for each direction). 

4. You’ll receive a QR code after booking.

This is the link for reservations from Taichung to Sun Moon Lake: https://ntbus.welcometw.com/tour/MvmY

For reservations from Sun Moon Lake to Taichung: https://ntbus.welcometw.com/tour/v2gb 

It’s worth noting that you can’t reserve seats during Lunar New Year or certain long weekends, as those are open for walk-in passengers only.

Also, only 10 seats per bus are available for online reservation, the rest are for passengers who line up and pay on the spot.

Payment & Check-In

Even if you’ve booked online, you’ll still pay with your EasyCard when you board the bus. The fare is around TWD 166 from Taichung HSR Station, or TWD 193 from Taichung TRA/Nantou Bus Station, one way.

Here’s the step-by-step process for checking in on the day of your trip:

• Take your QR code to the ticket counter at least 20 minutes before departure (earlier if it’s busy).

• After checking in, you’ll receive a queue number (sort of like a boarding priority slip).

• When it’s time to board, scan your EasyCard for payment and show your queue number to the driver.

Nantou Bus ticket counters are located at:

Priority Boarding and the Queue System (What I Learned the Hard Way)

Here’s something I didn’t know before going: if you haven’t booked online, you can still get priority boarding by getting a queue number before lining up.

You can do this by visiting:

• The Nantou ticket window at Gancheng Station in Taichung, or

• The Sun Moon Lake Visitors Center, across from the bus stop in Shuishe.

This system basically ensures you board before those who just walk up and line up without a number, though still after people who booked online.

However, this system only worked one way for me.

• On the Taichung to Sun Moon Lake route, the numbered queue system worked great.

• But on the Sun Moon Lake to Taichung return trip, it was completely different, there were no queue numbers and it turned into a bit of a free-for-all. Everyone just lined up, and the first ones there got the seats.

So my advice:

Arrive at least 30-40 minutes early for both directions.

When we got there 40 minutes before our scheduled departure, there was already a line forming. If you arrive late, you might not get a seat and will have to wait for the next bus (even if you booked an online ticket).

Duration and Experience

The bus ride from Taichung to Sun Moon Lake takes around 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on traffic. The buses are generally comfortable and air-conditioned. You’ll be dropped off at Shuishe, which is the main village around the lake and the easiest area to start exploring from.

Where to Stay

Accommodation around Sun Moon Lake is known for being pricey, even dorms. Prices jump even higher on weekends, holidays, or during cherry blossom season, so book in advance if possible.

We stayed in Shuishe, and it turned out to be a smart choice. Most buses from Taichung arrive and depart here, and you’ll find several restaurants, cafés, and 24-hour 7-Elevens and FamilyMarts nearby. Another option is Ita Thao, which has a livelier night market vibe and more food options. However, getting there requires either a bus around the lake or a ferry ride from Shuishe.

We spent one night (two days), arriving in the morning and leaving the next afternoon, and found that was just enough time to see the main attractions without rushing.

How to Get Around the Lake

Most travellers explore Sun Moon Lake by bike, bus, or boat.

By Ferry

Small ferries run between Shuishe, Xuanguang Temple, and Ita Thao in a loop (counterclockwise).

• Schedule: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM (every 15-20 minutes)

• Tickets: TWD 150 one way, available from the staff in yellow vests at the pier (cash only)

Ferries are scenic, relaxing, and a nice alternative to biking if you’re feeling lazy (like us).

By Bus

The Sun Moon Lake Round-the-Lake Bus (6669) runs in both directions and stops at the main sites.

• First bus: 6:40 AM (from Shuishe)

• Last bus: around 6–7 PM

• Payment: EasyCard accepted

Make sure to check the schedule before heading out, as buses don’t run late in the evening. Here are the schedules: http://www.ntbus.com.tw/s03.html 

About the “Sun Moon Lake Pass”

You’ll read about the Sun Moon Lake Visitor Pass everywhere, but it’s honestly confusing. There’s no single pass that covers everything, instead, there are combinations for buses, ferries, cable cars, or bike rentals.

If you’re only staying a day, it’s often easier (and not much more expensive) to just pay for things separately rather than trying to decode which pass fits your plans.

Check out the pass on the official website: https://www.sunmoonlaketrip.net/en/package.aspx 

What to Do at Sun Moon Lake

Here’s our 1-day / 1-night itinerary, which worked perfectly for us.

Morning: Arrival and Temples

We left Taichung at 8:20 AM and arrived in Shuishe around 10:30 AM.

From there, we took the ferry to Xuanguang Wharf (TWD 150). From the pier, it’s a 1 km uphill walk (20–30 minutes) through a quiet forest path to Xuan Zang Temple, peaceful, but a bit of a workout.

If you’d rather skip the climb, you can take the bus instead, which drops you closer to the temple.

Continue from Xuan Zang Temple another short walk (200 m) to the Ci’en Pagoda trailhead. It’s another 700 m uphill, but totally worth it, you can climb to the top for sweeping views of the lake and surrounding mountains. The pagoda is open 9 AM to 4:30 PM.

Afternoon: Ita Thao and Food

As there wasn’t a bus coming soon, we decided to walk 50 minutes along the road to Ita Thao, where there’s a buzzing food street. Expect free liquor samples, souvenirs, and lots of tasty local snacks. We grabbed lunch and enjoyed it at the Ita Thao Visitor Center Plaza with a view of the lake.

Late Afternoon: Wenwu Temple & Sunset

From Ita Thao, we took a bus to Wenwu Temple, my personal favourite stop. It’s a large, beautifully designed temple with multiple levels and intricate details, each tier has its own atmosphere.

We caught it just in time for golden hour, when the sunlight made the colours glow. Make sure to go all the way up to see the stone gate and feed the koi fish (yes, you can buy a packet of koi food for 10 TWD).

After Wenwu Temple, we took a bus back to Shuishe, grabbed a coffee by the pier, and watched the day wind down.

Sunrise & Sunset Spots

• Sunrise: Shuishe Pier - calm, accessible, and beautiful if you’re up before 6 AM.

• Sunset: Wenwu Temple - stunning when the light hits the red pillars and golden details.

• For a hike: Mount Maolan Trail (about 1 hour to the top) gives you a panoramic view of the lake.

• For a different view: Jinlongshan Lookout - a bit farther away, but if you’re lucky, you’ll see the famous “Sea of Clouds.”

A Little Rant: The Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village

We didn’t visit the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village, and honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it. While it’s often marketed as a cultural attraction, it’s a controversial place. The park combines an amusement area with “tribal villages” that present indigenous Taiwanese cultures in a commercialised and outdated way. Many visitors and locals alike criticise it for being disrespectful and inaccurate in how it represents Taiwan’s indigenous peoples. If you want to learn more about local cultures, there are far more authentic and respectful places in Taiwan to do so.

Final Thoughts

Sun Moon Lake is absolutely worth visiting, the scenery is stunning, the temples are beautiful, and it’s an easy getaway from Taichung. That said, it’s also one of the few places in Taiwan that feels very touristy. Expect crowds, long lines, and inflated prices, especially on weekends.

Still, it’s hard not to be impressed by the lake’s calm beauty, especially during sunrise or sunset when everything turns golden. If you go in with realistic expectations and plan ahead a little, you’ll have a lovely, peaceful time exploring one of Taiwan’s most iconic spots.