Alishan

Alishan National Forest Recreation Area is one of Taiwan’s most famous mountain destinations, and for good reason. At over 2,000 meters above sea level, it’s a place where ancient cypress forests meet rolling tea plantations, where mist drifts through the valleys, and where travellers gather every morning to watch one of Taiwan’s most iconic sunrises. Whether you come for the views, the hiking trails, or the chance to spot wildlife like the elusive Mikado pheasant, Alishan is a destination that deserves more than just a quick day trip. I visited Alishan the very first time I came to Taiwan, and it quickly became one of my favourite places. If you can, I’d recommend staying a couple of days to truly soak in the atmosphere of the forest.

Best Time to Visit

Each season brings a different mood to Alishan:

  • Spring (March–April): Cherry blossoms paint the mountains in pink, making this the most popular time to visit (very busy though, and you might need to book accommodation very far in advance).

  • Summer (June–August): Days are cool compared to Taiwan’s lowlands, but heavy fog often hides the sunrise.

  • Autumn (October–November): Golden foliage makes the forest trails especially photogenic.

  • Winter (December–February): Rare snowfalls transform the forest, but it can be freezing and some transport options may be affected.

 

I went in summer, and it proved very calm. The fog added a really nice touch to the forest, and it was quite cool (nice change from the rest of Taiwan).

How to Get There

Reaching Alishan isn’t the simplest journey, but it’s very doable with public transportation. The nearest city is Chiayi, and from there you have two main options:

  • From Chiayi HSR Station (Route A): Exit 2, take the Chiayi County Bus (Route 7329).

  • From Chiayi TRA Station (Route B): Directly in front of the station, take the Chiayi County Bus (Route 7322).

 

 Good to know:

  • The TRA station is in downtown Chiayi, while the HSR station is a 20-minute drive out.

  • The bus to Alishan departs 10 times daily from the TRA station, starting at 6:05am, with the last bus at 2:10pm. From the HSR station, departures are fewer, just four times a day between 9:30am and 1:10pm.

  • One-way bus tickets cost NT$240 from TRA and NT$278 from HSR.

  • Tickets can be booked in advance at FamilyMart (FamiPort/FamiTicket machines) for an extra NT$20 fee, or you can try to hop on using an EasyCard. However, during weekends, holidays, or cherry blossom season, seats fill up quickly, so pre-book if you want a guaranteed seat.

  • Reserved ticket holders board first; afterwards, remaining seats are first come, first served.

 

Once you arrive at Alishan Bus Station, it’s a short 5-minute uphill walk to Alishan Train Station and the park entrance. Admission to the Alishan National Forest is NT$300 per adult, but if you show your yellow bus receipt from Chiayi, it’s discounted to NT$150. Keep that ticket, it’s valid for your entire stay.

 

Pro tip: If you buy a return ticket at Alishan Bus Station, you can secure a reserved seat for your trip back too.

Where to Stay

Accommodation inside Alishan is limited and fills up quickly, especially on weekends and holidays. Prices are higher than elsewhere in Taiwan, expect to pay upwards of NT$3,500 (around €100+) per night.

 

I stayed at Ali-Shan Dengshan Hotel for about €110 per night, which was one of the priciest hotels I’ve ever booked in Taiwan, and honestly, it wasn’t amazing. That said, options are scarce inside the park, so booking early is essential if you want to avoid missing out.

 

The advantage of staying inside the park is that you only need to pay the entrance fee once, even if you stay multiple days. Around the hotel area, you’ll also find food stalls, restaurants, and a 7-Eleven, a lifesaver for budget travellers looking for snacks, drinks, or a quick meal.

 

Alternative stays: If park hotels are full or out of budget, nearby Fenqihu is a charming option. It has a nostalgic old street, famous railway lunchboxes (bento), and cheaper accommodation compared to Alishan itself.

What to Do in Alishan

Alishan is most famous for its sunrises and its little red forest railway, but there’s much more to see:

  • Sunrise Spots: Zhushan Sunrise Trail, Duigaoyue Sunrise Viewing Platform, Xiaoliyuanshan Lookout, or Zhushan Observation Deck. Sunrise can be as early as 5am, and it gets very cold, pack layers and get there early to grab a good spot.

  • Alishan Forest Railway: Ride the historical red train (tickets sell out quickly) or enjoy watching it pass through the misty forest, it’s just as awesome from the trails.

  • Hiking Trails: The area has several short, scenic walks, such as the Sister Ponds Trail, Cypress Forest Trail, and the path to the Shuishan Giant Tree. None are too difficult, and the atmosphere is unforgettable, especially when the fog rolls in.

  • Temples: Visit Ciyun Temple and Shouzhen Temple, both easily reachable by foot.

  • Tea Culture: Alishan is also known for its high-mountain oolong tea, so try a cup in the village if you have the time.

Wildlife in Alishan

For nature lovers, Alishan is a rewarding place to slow down and keep your eyes open:

  • Mammals: Reeves’s muntjac, Formosan macaques, and yellow-throated martens are sometimes seen in the forest.

  • Birds: The biggest draw is the Mikado pheasant, Taiwan’s national bird and a rare but unforgettable sighting.

  • Reptiles: Several snake species also inhabit the are, though you’ll need patience and luck to spot them.

Even if you don’t see much wildlife, just being in the misty cypress forest makes the experience special.

Final Thoughts

Alishan might take some effort (and money) to reach, but it’s absolutely worth it. From peaceful forest walks and golden sunrises to the thrill of spotting rare wildlife, it’s a destination that feels both iconic and deeply tranquil. I’d recommend staying at least two nights if you can, it allows you to slow down, avoid the day-trip crowds, and really immerse yourself in the atmosphere.

 

For me, Alishan has become one of the places in Taiwan I’ll always want to return to. It’s not just about checking off a tourist spot, it’s about experiencing the forest, the mist, and the quiet trails.