Xi'an

Xi’an is one of China’s most famous historical cities, home to the world-renowned Terracotta Army and known across the country for its unbelievable food scene. If you’re a foodie, Xi’an will spoil you. If you love history, this is the place. But if you’re expecting a super modern, convenient, easy city like Shanghai or Guangzhou… yeah, no.

To be completely honest, Xi’an wasn’t my favourite city in China. It felt a bit grey and depressing at times, and just far less convenient than anywhere else we visited. There are barely any convenience stores, and the public transportation system isn’t great. We had to walk a lot. People were also stricter here, not rude, but definitely less warm and less helpful than in other regions. And yes: pickpocketing is more common here, especially in tourist zones like the Muslim Quarter.

But the Terracotta Army? Unreal. Absolutely worth coming all the way for.

Here’s everything you need to know to navigate Xi’an without losing your mind.

How to Get Around Xi’an

Arrival by Train

If you arrive at Xi’an Railway Station, you can take the metro directly into the city. We took Line 1, which connects well to most central areas.

Metro System

The metro is okay, not nearly as extensive as Shanghai or Beijing, but it gets you to the main attractions. Keep in mind:

• You cannot tap in with foreign credit cards.

• You must buy a paper ticket or use the Xi’an Metro QR code in Alipay (which you have to activate, see my step-by-step guide).

• Security at stations is strict, and bags are scanned every time.

Because the metro doesn’t cover every area, expect longer walks compared to other Chinese cities.

Visiting the Terracotta Army

The main reason anyone comes to Xi’an, and honestly, the most impressive site in the region.

Tickets

• Cost: 60 CNY

• Must be bought on the official website (https://terracottawarriorsmuseum.com/ticket-admission/)

• Requires a Chinese phone number for verification (Yes… very inconvenient for tourists.)

Choosing a Timeslot

You book a time window depending on ticket availability. In high season, they sell out far in advance (order at least 2 weeks in advance).

How to Get There (SUPER IMPORTANT)

This part is confusing online, so here’s the real, step-by-step breakdown:

1. Metro to Zhonglou Station

Take the metro to Zhonglou and follow signs to Exit H.

2. Find the Official Staff

Outside Exit H, look for people wearing:

• Orange vests

• Badges

ONLY trust these people. Ignore everyone else.

They will:

• Sell you the bus ticket (via Alipay)

• Show you which bus to take

• Make the whole process less confusing

We paid 9.9 CNY each with a discount (normally 30 CNY).

3. The Green Tourist Buses

Board one of the green buses parked directly outside the station (the staff will tell you which one to take). They fill up fast and leave once full, so in high season leave early enough. Travel time: 1–1.5 hours

4. The Confusing Drop-Off

You will be dropped… on a highway. Yes. Literally the side of a highway.

From there:

• Walk 10-20 minutes through a weird, theme-park-ish tourist village

• Eventually reach the main entrance

• If you need to buy tickets, go to the ticket office

• If you already bought online: go straight to the gate and scan your passport

5. Inside the Park

You walk through a park first, then go through another passport check.

We spent just over one hour inside. A guide would stretch it to 2-3 hours.

Getting Back to the City

Do NOT walk back to the highway. Instead:

• Find the red-vested official staff at Qin Shi Huang Bing Ma Yong (on Amap)

• You pay at the counter inside the building. Cost: 30 CNY per person

• They’ll escort you to the correct return bus

Other Things to Do in Xi’an

Xi’an City Wall

Entry: 54 CNY, this gives you access to the entire ancient wall circling the old city.

You can:

• Walk sections of it

• Rent bikes

• Visit cafés and small shops along the wall

Locals hang out here to read, it’s surprisingly peaceful.

Best time to visit: Golden hour.

Drum Tower

Ticket: 30 CNY or 50 CNY for combined Drum + Bell Tower ticket. The Drum Tower is more impressive and right next to the Muslim Quarter, so we only bought a ticket for the Drum Tower. Note: You must store your bag at the ticket office.

Muslim Quarter

If you come to Xi’an for one thing besides the Terracotta Army, let it be this. This is THE street food paradise of China.

Huimin Street (the main street) is:

• Loud

• Chaotic

• Overflowing with food stalls

• Weirdly theatrical (neon dragons breathing smoke??)

It’s absolutely a tourist trap but still so fun. The best food is actually in the side streets, where prices are lower and the crowds disappear. I have never seen this much food in my entire life. It’s overwhelming in the best way.

Wild Goose Pagoda (Dayan Pagoda)

Take Line 4. Best visited in the evening when everything is lit up. They sometimes do light shows (online info is inconsistent).

Other sights you can consider

• Xingqinggong Park

• Great Mosque of Xi’an

• Eight Immortals Palace

• Lianhu Park

• Xiwutai Yunju Temple

Food in Xi’an

Spice Levels

Let me be extremely clear: Xi’an food is violently spicy.

We asked for “low spice” every single time. Every single meal ended with:

• Me sweating

• Eyes watering

• Full emotional breakdown

• And yes… me blowing up the toilet (you’re welcome for the visual)

Prices

Food is super cheap:

• Meals from 11 CNY

• Snacks everywhere

• But coffee is hard to find!

Ordering Food

Local restaurants still take cash. Most 'newer' places use QR code ordering:

• Scan with Alipay

• Select dishes

• Pay online

Very convenient if the app works for you (check out how to use the Alipay App).

Safety in Xi’an

Pick-pocketing is more common here than in other places we visited. Keep your phone and wallet in zipped pockets and wear your backpack in front when in the Muslim Quarter.

Final Thoughts

Xi’an was an interesting experience, full of history, incredible food, and one major bucket-list attraction. The Terracotta Army is absolutely worth the trip and is one of the most unforgettable archaeological sites in the world.

But the city itself felt less convenient, less friendly, and honestly a bit depressing compared to everywhere else we visited in China. Transportation isn’t great, everything requires more effort, and finding basic things like convenience stores or coffee was surprisingly difficult.

For us, two days was enough:

• One day for the Terracotta Army

• One day for the city wall + Muslim Quarter + Drum Tower

And that’s pretty much all you need. Xi’an is worth visiting, just come prepared and manage your expectations.