How to get to Cusco

From Lima

Cusco is well-connected to Lima by both bus and plane. Buses are the cheaper option, but keep in mind the ride takes around 20–24 hours, depending on the company and route. Some reputable companies include Cruz del Sur, Oltursa, and Tepsa. If you’re short on time, domestic flights are a faster option, taking just over 1 hour. There are multiple daily flights operated by LATAM, Sky Airline, and JetSmart.

Our route: from Huaraz to Cusco

Exploring Cusco

Where to Stay

We stayed at Chelitos Backpacker, a small, cozy hostel tucked in the historic centre of Cusco. The owners are super sweet and welcoming, plus, they have a fluffy white cat who regularly comes around asking for cuddles. It’s simple but has everything you need, and at around $5 per person per night, it’s a solid budget option. You can leave your backpacks for free when traveling to Machu Picchu.

What to Do

• Explore the historic center: Plaza de Armas, San Blas Neighbourhood, visit the cathedral, and check out the San Pedro Market for snacks and souvenirs.

• Day trip to the Sacred Valley: Visit Pisac, Ollantaytambo, and Moray (either independently or with a tour).
• Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca): A popular (and very early) day trip.
• Humantay Lake: a day hike doable on a tour from Cusco.

• Sacsayhuamán: Inca ruins just outside the city, walkable from the centre.

• Gateway to Machu Picchu!

Cusco sits at 3400m, so take it slow the first day!

Machu Picchu

How to Reach Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu)

There are several ways to get to the famous Incan citadel, some are quick and comfy, others are more challenging. Every route leads to Aguas Calientes, which is the town you'll probably stay at for a night before or after visiting Machu Picchu. Here’s a breakdown:

Multi-Day Treks:

• Salkantay Trek (4–5 days): This is the route we took. You pass snowy peaks and tropical cloud forests before reaching Aguas Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu. It’s a great alternative to the Inca Trail and doesn’t require a permit or tour.
• Inca Trail (4 days): The classic route. You walk along original Inca paths and arrive at the Sun Gate. Must be booked months in advance due to limited permits and requires the presence of a guide.
• Lares Trek (3–4 days): A less-traveled route that goes through traditional Andean villages. Ends with a train to Aguas Calientes.
• Choquequirao to Machu Picchu (8–10 days): A challenging and remote trek connecting two archaeological sites. For the experienced trekker.

Train:

• You can take a train from Cusco or Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes with companies like PeruRail or IncaRail (right now they are working on the train tracks between Cusco and Ollantaytambo, so you'll have to take a bus for this part. Tickets for the bus are also available on the train company website in addition to your train tickets).
• Trains vary from 'budget' to luxury and take around 1.5 to 4 hours depending on your starting point. We paid 65 USD per person for the budget train, which is already very expensive.

Bus & Walk:

• Take a bus or van from Cusco to Hidroeléctrica (approx. 6–8 hours).
• From there, hike 10 km (~2.5–3 hrs) along the train tracks to Aguas Calientes.
• A popular low-cost option, though the road can be rough.

Where to Stay in Aguas Calientes

We stayed at Catari’s House for 3 nights, paying around $30 USD per night. It’s one of the more affordable options in town, which says a lot, because Aguas Calientes is extremely touristy and pricey.

We chose to stay a bit longer:

• To rest up before our visit to Machu Picchu, and
• Because my partner needed to work remotely for a day.

Budget Food Tips

Despite the high prices in most restaurants, we managed to eat cheaply:

• Set meals for around 12 soles, usually includes soup, a main, and a drink. Some cheap options: MI CASA restaurant, Yila Sumac, and the local markets (look for local Peruvian restaurants).
• Street vendors in the morning selling sandwiches and drinks. We found options for 2.5 soles.

Visiting Machu Picchu: What to Know Before You Go

Once you’re in Aguas Calientes, you will need to find your way to Machu Picchu. Here’s how:

Tickets:

• You must buy your Machu Picchu ticket in advance. Spots are limited and popular time slots (especially early morning) sell out quickly. The time slots available are from 6 AM to 3 PM. We bought ours a month in advance (low season), but you might even need to buy them earlier if you go in the busy months (June-September). I cannot emphasise enough how important it is to plan your trip to Machu Picchu a couple of months in advance! Tickets sell out quickly, and last-minute bookings can cost anywhere from $200–250 USD depending on availability and urgency.
• Tickets are available online through the official government site or at the Machu Picchu Cultural Centre in Aguas Calientes (though we recommend online to be safe).
• Additional hikes like Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain need to be booked months ahead.

Here is the official website to buy your tickets:

https://www.machupicchu.gob.pe/online-tickets/?lang=en 

There are multiple circuits to choose from:

• Circuit 1 (Panoramic Route): Focuses on upper viewpoints with minimal access to inner sectors.
• Circuit 2 (Clasico): The classic route, giving you the iconic postcard view from above and access to the main urban sectors.
• Circuit 3 (Royalty Route): Focuses more on the lower part of Machu Picchu, less scenic.
• Circuit 4 (Sacred Route): Includes the Temple of the Sun and other lower sectors.

Standard entry: Around $40 USD for foreigners (cheaper for Peruvians and students with ISIC cards). Optional hikes (e.g., Huayna Picchu, Machu Picchu Mountain) cost extra and sell out quickly.

Your Visit

How to Get to the Entrance:

There are two ways to get to the site from town

• By foot: A steep hike up stone steps through the jungle, takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. 
• By bus: Buses run from 5:30 AM onwards. Tickets are $12 USD one-way or $24 USD return. You can buy them the day before at the bus ticket office in town (bring your passport!), this is recommended during high season (long queues). During low season, you can buy the tickets when you want to depart.
• Bring your passport: you’ll need it to enter.

Time Slot & Visit Duration:

You generally get 2–3 hours to explore Machu Picchu, depending on your entry slot. We had the last slot at 3 PM (because everything else was sold out), and we only got 2 hours, which felt very rushed. Earlier slots give you more flexibility.

Wildlife to Look For:

Despite the crowds, there’s still a surprising amount of wildlife:

• Llamas (obviously, they’re everywhere)
• Viscachas (chinchilla-like animals), which were one of our target species visiting Cusco
• Birds, we spotted a beautiful Motmot near the entrance

Getting Back to Cusco

After Machu Picchu, you’ll need to make your way back to Cusco. Here are a few options:

1. Budget Option: Walk + Bus

• Walk 2–3 hours from Aguas Calientes to Hidroelectrica
• From there, take a direct bus to Cusco (long journey, 6–8 hours)
• Cheapest, but not the most comfortable

2. Train + Bus Combo

• Take a train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo. It takes about 1h40.
• Then transfer to a bus or colectivo to Cusco

Currently (2024), due to rail construction, trains don’t go all the way to Cusco.

• Train ticket: $65 USD per person
• You can add a bus transfer through the train company for $10 USD extra
• Tip: Buy train tickets early, they sell out fast

Best views:

• Left side of the train when going to Aguas Calientes

• Right side when going back (but you can’t choose seats)

3. Local Option: Colectivo from Ollantaytambo

We skipped the train company’s bus and looked for our own transport at the Ollantaytambo train station.

• Found a colectivo for 25 soles per person (~$7 USD)
• Prices vary: expect anything between 10–120 soles, depending on size, timing, and how full the car is
• The driver couldn’t fill the van, so he managed to find us a 4-person car for the same price, shared with 2 other people
• The ride took about 2 hours and dropped us off at the main plaza in Cusco

Budget Breakdown

Here’s a breakdown of our total expenses for the Salkantay Trek, our visit to Machu Picchu, and our trip back to Cusco. This is based on two people traveling together and sharing costs. Our total spending was 2049.5 soles or 556 USD (278 USD per person).

Tips

• Bring snacks and water, there’s nowhere to buy food once you enter.
• Bathrooms are only available before the entrance gate, so plan accordingly.
• Don’t forget sun protection, bug spray, and your ticket + passport.

• Bring a rain poncho, as umbrellas are not allowed inside the site.