Important Information

Thinking about doing the Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu without a tour and on a budget? We did it independently for only 77 dollars per person, and here’s exactly how we got to the trailhead, where to stay, how much it will cost, and what to expect during the trek!

About the Trek

The Salkantay Trek is a popular multi-day hiking alternative to the Inca Trail, offering beautiful views of snowy mountains, high-altitude passes, and cloud forests. It spans about 70–75 km in total and usually takes 3 to 5 days, ending in Aguas Calientes (the base town of Machu Picchu).

The first day traditionally starts in Mollepata, ascending to Soraypampa (around 11 km and 900 m elevation gain). However, many hikers, us included, skip this section and start directly from Soraypampa to save energy and time for the more challenging parts ahead.

• Total Elevation Gain: Approximately 2,100m.
• Highest Point: Salkantay Pass at 4,630m.
• Starting Elevation: Mollepata: 2,900m or Soraypampa: 3,900m
• Ending Elevation: Aguas Calientes at 2,040m
• Best time to go: For the best conditions, aim for May to September, when rainfall is lowest and trails are in good shape (less mud, rain, and landslides).

The GPX download:

https://nl.wikiloc.com/routes-wandelen/salkantay-trek-11950252 

Safety

Overall, the Salkantay Trek felt very safe. With so many people on the trail at any given time, you’re rarely ever alone, which adds an extra sense of security.

Trail Safety:

• The hiking paths are not technically difficult.
• That said, be cautious in areas that have been affected by landslides. Some sections can be a bit unstable, especially after heavy rain. On day 2, for example, we had to cross a few landslide-prone areas and on day 1, we had to climb a muddy slope due to a roadblock. Take your time and don’t rush in slippery spots.

Altitude Warning:

• Only the first hiking day from Soraypampa to Collpapampa takes you through high-altitude terrain, reaching a max elevation of 4,630 meters at the Salkantay Pass.
• If you haven’t had time to acclimatise in Cusco (or another high-altitude area), this could be tough.
• Watch out for symptoms of altitude sickness: headache, nausea, fatigue, dizziness.
• We recommend bringing altitude medication or coca leaves (which are widely sold in Cusco). They helped a lot when we started feeling sick.

Preparation

You’ll be hiking long distances (17–22 km a day), often with steep climbs and descents, and dealing with altitude, rain, and tired legs. Here’s how to get ready:

• Train a little: Try to do some hikes or long walks with a backpack before your trip. Especially practice uphill and downhill, your knees will thank you.
• Pack light but smart: Bring layers, a good rain jacket, waterproof backpack cover, and extra socks. Dry clothes at the end of a rainy day are a luxury.
• Altitude awareness: If you haven’t acclimatised to high altitudes yet, spend a couple of days in Cusco first and consider bringing coca leaves or altitude meds just in case.
• Snacks + water: Stock up on energy bars or nuts. You’ll burn a lot of calories and sometimes you won’t pass a shop for hours.
• Book ahead: Especially for hostels along the way, even in low season, places fill up fast (use Booking or send the hostel a text through WhatsApp).

Packing list

This is a summary of what we packed for the trek:

One interesting thing about the Salkantay Trek is how quickly the landscape and climate change. You’ll start in cold, high-altitude mountain areas, pass through snowy peaks, and end up in warm, humid cloud forest and jungle-like conditions near Aguas Calientes.

That means you’ll need to pack for a bit of everything:

• Cold layers: Early mornings and nights in Soraypampa can be freezing. Warm clothes are necessary. 
• Rain gear: The cloud forest is, well, cloudy and wet, especially in rainy season. A good waterproof jacket and backpack cover are a must. Quick-dry clothes are a plus.
• Sun protection: Once the clouds clear, the sun is strong, especially at high altitudes. Bring sunscreen.
• Comfortable hiking shoes: With all the mud, rocks, and long distances, make sure your shoes are broken in and ideally waterproof.

Being prepared for all these conditions will help you enjoy the trek a lot more, and stay dry, warm, and sane when the weather suddenly flips (which it will).

Tips

• Book accommodation ahead via WhatsApp or Booking.com. Even in low season, our hostel was full. It will save a lot of stress and energy to have your accommodation ready by the end of a tiring day.
• Stay overnight in Soraypampa for the first night! There are no other hostels for many kilometres after.
• Waterproof everything, especially in rain season.
• Bring altitude-sickness pills or coca leafs.
• Bring snacks so you don't have to buy them from vendors along the way for a higher price.
• Be ready for a physically demanding hike. This might not be for you if you don't have much experience hiking.
• Bring gear for both high-altitude landscape and tropical environment.

• Start early every day. Try to leave between 6:00–6:30am. You’ll beat the heat, avoid afternoon rain (hopefully), and have more time to take breaks without rushing.

• Water is available, but bring purification. There are streams and taps at most hostels, but it’s smart to bring a filter or purification tablets, just in case.

• Have cash on hand. There are no ATMs between Mollepata and Aguas Calientes. Bring more soles than you think you’ll need. Even though almost all hotels along the trek take card nowadays, there is still a 5% surcharge.

• Toilet paper and soap aren’t always provided. You might want to bring your own TP, hand sanitiser, and maybe even a little shampoo.

• Think twice about rainy season (November–early April). Yes, it’s doable, but it’s also wet, muddy, cold, and slippery. It made our experience a lot tougher and less enjoyable. If you can, aim for dry season (late April–October) for better weather and views.

Transportation

There are two ways to get to the trailhead:

• Option 1: Start trekking from Mollepata to Soraypampa.
• Option 2 (Recommended): Take a bus directly from Cuzco to Soraypampa and begin the trek there.

We chose Option 2, and here’s exactly how it went:

Step 1: Cusco to Mollepata

Step 2: Mollepata to Soraypampa

Once in Mollepata, we stayed on the same bus to continue to Soraypampa. We paid 46 soles in total per person from Cusco to Soraypampa (that includes both segments). This was the best option for us as it was hassle-free, and we avoided having to find a private taxi, which can cost over 70 soles unless you’re in a group (some ask 100 soles).

5 km before Soraypampa, we had to fill out a form at a checkpoint. Some blogs mention a 20 soles fee, but we didn’t have to pay anything. The bus dropped us off 2 km before Soraypampa due to a massive landslide, and honestly, this part was rough. We had to climb up and down a muddy, slippery mountainside with dozens of other hikers and tour groups. It was raining non-stop from the moment we left Cusco. Bring waterproof everything. Be sure to leave Cusco early enough to make it to Soraypampa before dark! Some hostels don't allow any more guests in after 4:30 PM.

Where to Stay in Soraypampa

We arrived at 12:00 PM and stayed in a hostel near the trailhead. We stayed at Soraypampa Hotel.

• Price: 35 soles per person (~$10) for a dorm bed. Double beds for couples available. Private cabins: 150 soles.
• Shared bathrooms
• Really good Wi-Fi (one of the best we had during our travels)
• Power and internet shut off at 9 PM, back on at 5 AM
• Warm showers: 10 soles
• Meals: 20 soles each (we brought our own food, it’s pricey)
• Pay with cash or card

Budget Breakdown

Here’s a breakdown of our total expenses for the 3-day trek along with the average daily cost for food and accommodation. This is based on two people traveling together and sharing costs. Our total spending was 466 soles or 154.5 USD (77.25 USD per person).

We brought our own snacks for the entire trek, so we didn't have to buy expensive food along the way (although there are some shops you can buy snacks and drinks from). We also prepared lunch, dinner, and breakfast for our first night at Soraypampa to save some money.

Our Experience: Day-by-Day 

Day 1: Soraypampa to Collpapampa

• Distance: ~20 km
• Start time: 6:30 AM
• Arrival at hostel: ~4:00 PM
• Duration: 9:30h
• Elevation gain: 800 m to the Salkantay Pass at 4600 m

The first 6 km are straight uphill and quite challenging. If you’re not acclimated to high altitude, be cautious. We had just done the Huaraz trek and thought we’d be fine, but I still got hit hard by altitude sickness at 4000m. Bring coca leaves or altitude pills, just in case. A kind couple gave us some, which helped a lot.

At the pass, you get amazing views of Salkantay Mountain. From there, it’s a steep descent most of the way. Unfortunately, we got soaked in rain all afternoon.

We didn’t enjoy the first day as much because it was completely overcrowded. At least 150 people were on the trail and tour groups clogged up the narrow paths, at some sections, we had to wait for long lines of people to pass before we could continue. The constant crowd made the trek feel less special. Only around 30 hikers were self-guided, while the rest were in large groups.

We stayed at Camping/Hostel El Molle-Capulichayoc (contact through WhatsApp):

• Location: ~1 km past Chaullay (worth the extra distance!)
• Price: 50 soles per person for a cabin
• Includes: Dinner, breakfast, and Wifi
• Extras: Sandwiches for lunch (5 soles), hot popcorn on arrival, tea in the common area
• Camping option: Available in the yard
• Pay with cash or card

Day 2: Collpapampa to Lucmabamba

• Distance: ~17 km
• Start time: 6:30 AM
• Arrival time: 11:30 AM
• Duration: 5h
• Terrain: Mostly flat/downhill

This was the easiest day of the trek. Originally, this section went through forest trails, but recent landslides have rerouted the path onto a dirt road. MAKE SURE NOT TO FOLLOW THE ORIGINAL PATH! It’s less scenic but much easier to walk. You’ll pass a few river crossings and muddy patches, but nothing too crazy. We were lucky to arrive before the afternoon rain hit again.

Note: No colectivos can go directly from Collpapampa to Lucmabamba due to landslides. You’ll need to walk a few km past the last slide until you see parked cars. From there, you could take a van, but the walk is really manageable.

We stayed at Viamonte Ecolodge Peru (contact through WhatsApp):

• Price: 70 soles per person
• Room: Private with bathroom
• Includes: Dinner, breakfast, and Wifi
• Super cozy and a great spot to rest before the final stretch.
• Pay with cash or card

Day 3: Lucmabamba to Aguas Calientes

• Distance: ~22 km
• Start time: 6:30 AM
• Arrival time: 3:00 PM
• Duration: 8.5h
• Terrain: Steep ascend (800m) and descend

We left Lucmabamba at 6:30 AM, ready (or so we thought) for our final push toward Aguas Calientes.

The day started with a 6 km uphill climb, gaining around 800 meters in elevation. By the final stretch, the trail got very steep, and the fatigue from the previous two days hit us hard. We reached the highest point of the day at 2,750 meters around 8:30 AM.

From there, we faced a long and steep descent. While technically not difficult, this part was mentally exhausting. You constantly have to watch your step, and the repetition of going downhill for that long really wears you down.

We finally arrived at Hidroelectrica around 11:45 AM, and of course, that’s when the skies opened up. What followed was not just rain, but absolute pouring rain, and it didn’t stop. The next 10 kilometers from Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes follow the train tracks that connect to Machu Picchu. While it’s a flat and easy path, it turned into our least favourite part of the trek. With every step, our moods got lower. It was the kind of downpour where everything was soaked within five minutes. We were physically exhausted, mentally drained, and to be honest, just done. The scenery was repetitive, the rain relentless, and the only excitement came from dodging the occasional train.

We reached Aguas Calientes at 3 PM, completely soaked and over it. I cried. And for context, I’ve only cried three times during hikes:

1. During my ultramarathon in Chile
2. In Huascarán National Park on the Santa Cruz trek (also due to nonstop rain)
3. And now. Peru wins with two out of three.

Final Thoughts

The Salkantay Trek is nice, especially the sense of accomplishment you get from doing it all on foot. But we have to be honest, we didn’t love every part of it. The first day felt overcrowded, with way too many people on the trail, which took away some of the charm. And day three in the pouring rain was just rough, both physically and mentally. If you’re thinking of doing the trek, try to avoid the rainy season (roughly December to March/April). Constant rain, muddy trails, and wet gear for days can really affect your experience. We pushed through, but it wasn’t always enjoyable.