El Chaltén is known as Argentina’s trekking capital. This small Patagonian town is the gateway to multiple hikes, peaks, and glacial lakes, and it’s a must-do for anyone traveling through southern Patagonia. Since hiking in El Chalten can get quite expensive fast, I'll give you tips on how to cut the costs and alternative free hikes you can do instead.

Note: we went at the end of April. We do not recommend coming near the end of autumn as the beautiful foliage is almost completely gone. March is a better month to visit El Chalten.

Getting to El Chaltén

The most straightforward way to reach El Chaltén is by bus from El Calafate. We took the 11 a.m. bus operated by Chaltén Travel, departing from El Calafate’s main terminal. While the full roundtrip usually costs $157.75 USD for two people, we got extremely lucky, our Busbud account had some leftover credit, so we snagged the tickets for just $20 total.

The journey takes about 3.5 hours. Keep your eyes out the window and you might spot guanacos and Darwin’s rheas on the plains again.

Where We Stayed

We booked a few nights at Rancho Grande Hostel, which came out to $20 per person, per night. To be honest, it’s very busy and popular with backpackers, so if you’re more on the introverted side like us, prepare for some sensory overload. That said, it’s one of the cheapest options in town and has a huge kitchen you can use to cook your meals and save money.

Take note: the grocery stores in El Chalten are slightly more expensive than in El Calafate, so try to buy as much as possible in El Calafate already.

Park Entry Fees: What You Need to Know

Unfortunately, park entry fees in El Chaltén have skyrocketed. In 2023, the fee was 30,000 ARS, but in 2024, it jumped to 45,000 ARS per person, per hike for foreigners. Yes, per hike. Even short trails of one hour are now subject to this same fee.

Let me be blunt: it’s a bit outrageous.

Quick disclaimer before anyone comes at me with “if you can afford to travel, you can afford the fee”… We’re more than happy to pay a reasonable amount for nature conservation, say $10 per hike, or a one-time $45 fee for a multi-day pass like in other national parks. But 45,000 ARS (roughly $50 USD) for a one-hour trail? No thanks.

Locals even say that these fees don’t go to the park itself, they go straight to the government. And local businesses are starting to feel the impact. Tourists are cooking more, eating out less, and cutting back on spending to offset the cost, which is affecting small restaurants and accommodations. Some hotels, guides, and B&Bs are even quietly trying to help visitors find ways to avoid the fees, which I’ll cover in the hike-specific sections later on.

So, no, we didn’t pay for every hike. And I won’t be shamed for that.

Nature should be accessible, not exclusive.

Hikes

Laguna de los Tres via Monte Fitz Roy Trail

If there’s one trail that draws people to El Chaltén, it’s this one. The Laguna de los Tres hike via the Monte Fitz Roy Trail gives you a really beautiful view of Mount Fitz Roy, the same one on the Patagonia clothing brand logo. 

Trail Overview:

• Distance: ~20 km round trip

• Elevation gain: ~1000 m total

• Time: 3h45 up / 3h30 down

• Difficulty: Moderate

• Trailhead: At the north end of El Chaltén town (see notes below for alternative entry)

This was one of the easier hikes we’ve done in Patagonia, surprisingly. While the last 1 km is quite difficult with a 400 m elevation gain, the rest of the trail is a very gradual incline, almost feeling flat in many sections. If you’re relatively fit, you’ll probably find this one very doable.

To be honest, and this might be an unpopular opinion, the trail itself wasn’t all that exciting. Sure, the view of Fitz Roy and the turquoise lake is impressive and definitely worth seeing. But much of the trail leading up to it felt a bit monotonous, especially since the vibrant autumn foliage had already disappeared, leaving behind mostly bare trees and dry scrub.

So, if you’re expecting something as dynamic or jaw-dropping as Torres del Paine, manage your expectations. The finale is what you’re here for.

How to Avoid the Ridiculous Park Fee (45,000 ARS):  Yes, you read that right. The Argentine government now charges 45,000 pesos PER hike for foreigners, even for hikes that are just one hour. I'm not going to rant here again, but if you’re looking for legal (yet creative) ways to skip this fee, here’s how:

1. Enter Before 7:00 AM: Park rangers don’t start collecting fees until around 7 AM. If you get on the trail before then, there’s usually no one at the checkpoint hut.
2. Take the Back Entrance (which we did): There’s a lesser-known connecting trail that merges with the main Fitz Roy trail after the checkpoint.

Paredon Viewpoint Trail - A Free Alternative to Mirador de los Cóndores

Instead of paying 45,000 Argentine pesos for Mirador de los Cóndores, we opted for this completely free alternative that offers almost the same viewpoint, and yes, you can see condors here too!

• Distance & Duration: ~2 km roundtrip (We went straight up the hill and did not follow the original trail, but you can make the hike longer)

• Time: ~1 hour total (30 mins up, 30 mins down)

• Difficulty: Moderate, short but steep and slippery

• Elevation gain: Steep incline in a short distance

• Recommended gear: Hiking poles highly recommended!

The GPX for the entire trail (8km):

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/el-paredon-el-chalten-31646609 

Laguna Torre Trail - One of El Chaltén’s Classic (and Free) Hikes

Laguna Torre is one of the three main hikes in El Chaltén and thankfully, it’s still completely free. No park fees, no checkpoints.

• Distance: 18 km roundtrip

• Time: ~3 hours to the lake, ~2h15 back

• Total time: Around 5–6 hours depending on breaks

• Difficulty: Easy to Moderate

• Elevation gain: Minimal, mostly flat with a few small hills

The trail leads you through Patagonian forests and valleys all the way to Laguna Torre, a glacial lake fed by the Torre Glacier. On a clear day, you’ll also see Cerro Torre, one of Patagonia’s iconic peaks.

BUT: While the final lake and glacier view were really cool, we personally found most of the trail underwhelming, especially since the beautiful autumn foliage had already dropped. If you’re visiting outside of peak foliage season, keep this in mind, it might not be the most visually exciting walk until the very end.

Here is the GPX for the trail:

https://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/el-chalten-laguna-torre-3731909