Tainan

I visited Tainan twice, once for just a few days, and later when I lived there with my partner for two months. While Tainan doesn't seem like the most exciting city in Taiwan, it has its own charm. If you have some extra time in your Taiwan itinerary, it’s worth a stop, especially if you’re interested in history, temples, and wandering aimlessly through streets that mix the old with the modern.

 

The first time I visited Tainan, I only stayed for two days. It was pretty, but I wasn’t exactly wowed, it just felt like another quiet Taiwanese city. This time, though, after living here for two months and actually getting to know it like a local, I completely changed my mind.

 

Tainan is a straight-up vibe. It’s not a city that tries to impress you right away, you have to slow down and let it reveal itself bit by bit. The mix of crumbling old buildings, colourful temples tucked into every corner, and tiny cafés hidden down narrow alleys gives it a charm that’s hard to describe. In this section, I’ll try to convey what makes Tainan special, share my favourite spots (from temples to street food), and give you a few local tips to help you experience the city beyond the usual tourist stops.

How to Get Around

Tainan is fairly small and easy to navigate. There’s no metro system, only buses, but the city is walkable, crossing from one end to the other only takes around 30 minutes. If you don’t feel like walking, buses are cheap and straightforward.

What to Do in Tainan

Temples & History

Tainan is especially known for its temples. You’ll stumble across small, beautifully decorated temples everywhere in the city, and they’re often tucked into quiet streets. Some highlights include:

  • Confucius Temple: Built in 1666, this is a must-visit and costs around 40 TWD to enter. The surrounding Confucius Temple Business District is fun for strolling, browsing cultural markets, and trying snacks, though it has become quieter in recent years. Make sure you take your time to look at the remaining buildings from the Japanese Colonial period.

  • Shennong Street: Once a bustling cultural hub, it’s now a little more deserted, but still worth walking through, especially at night when the little 'odds and ends' stores, food stalls and small bars open. Don’t miss the Fat Cat Story Cafe for coffee with a cat on your lap.

  • Tainan Grand Mazu Temple: The first official Mazu temple in Taiwan, filled with history and gorgeous details.

  • Tiantan Tiangong Temple & Orthodox Luermen Shengmu Temple: The latter is one of the largest Mazu temples in Taiwan, located outside the city. You can get there with the 98 Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Fucheng–Taijiang line (around 40 TWD, about an hour).

  • Other smaller but charming temples include: Taiwan Fu City God Temple, Kaiji Linshui Temple, Temple for Emperor Dongyue, Tainan Sacrificial Rites Martial Temple, and Wufei Temple.

Markets & Food

  • Traditional Shuixian Gong Market: One of Tainan’s bigger local markets, where you can pick up fresh fruit, vegetables, and Taiwanese street food. A word of warning: it’s a bit rat-infested, so maybe don’t go in with high expectations for cleanliness, but it’s still worth exploring.

  • Cheng Kung University District (Yule Street): A lively area at night filled with affordable Asian food stalls. Perfect for grabbing dinner on a budget.

  • Sho Ramen: Hands down one of the best ramen places in Tainan. Their miso ramen is rich and flavourful, slightly more expensive than local food, but absolutely worth it.

  • 鴻牛 (Hong Niu): Don’t leave Tainan without trying their Taiwanese fresh beef soup. It’s a local specialty, comforting, rich, and full of flavour.

Unique Spots

If you’ve got some extra time in Tainan, there are a few lesser-known spots that are worth checking out between temple visits and night markets.

  • Tainan Lòng Story: A quirky building that’s great for urban photography. Entry costs 200 TWD, but you get a coupon for their ice cream (which is honestly really good).

  • Tainan Wu Garden: A quiet little oasis in the middle of the city, perfect for sitting down and catching your breath. It’s small, but that’s part of its charm, a great stop if you just want to take a slow moment away from the noise.

  • Hayashi Department Store: Originally built during the Japanese colonial period, this historic department store is now filled with beautiful trinkets, souvenirs, and local crafts. The entire place feels like stepping into a perfectly curated vintage world, everything is so aesthetically pleasing, you’ll probably want to buy something just because it looks nice.

  • Black Face Spoonbill Conservation Reserve: Every winter, black-faced spoonbills migrate south from the colder regions to this reserve to spend the season here. The visitor centre offers a great introduction to these migratory birds, and volunteers share insights about their habitat and conservation. Once critically endangered, black-faced spoonbills are still considered a threatened species, with only a few thousand individuals left in the wild, making it a special experience to see them here.

    Not only this reserve, but the entire wetlands are worth exploring if you are a bird lover. A car is needed though.

 

Tainan also has a ton of tiny independent stores where you can find handmade ceramics, candles, and cute home decorations. The best way to discover them? Just walk. Get lost in the smaller streets, peek into hidden shops, and you’ll stumble across some really special finds.

Cafés & Desserts

Since I lived in Tainan for two months, I found a few favourite spots that I kept going back to:

  • Gan Dan Café (Lane 79): Cozy spot on a fun little street, perfect for a slow morning or afternoon coffee.

  • Tin Drum: Great atmosphere, modern and calm, ideal for working or journaling.

  • Sun Hong Ho Dessert Restaurant: Beautiful presentation and light desserts that are almost too pretty to eat.

  • SHIYU Dessert Restaurant: Elegant, modern, and one of the best dessert spots in town.

  • Coffee Raguragu: The owner is incredibly kind and caring, one of those cafés where you instantly feel at home.

  • Whale Pastry & Books: A lovely blend of bookshop and bakery, smells amazing and feels like a secret hideout.

  • Narrow Door Café: Originally a doctor’s residence during the Japanese occupation, this café has kept its rustic, vintage charm. It’s tucked down a narrow alley (hence the name), and feels like you’re stepping back in time.

  • Cheer For: A creative art café with great coffee and an inspiring atmosphere, especially if you enjoy unique, artsy spaces.

  • Sparrow Brewing: If you want to try authentic Taiwanese craft beers, this is the place. A glass costs around 150 TWD, which is a bit pricey for Taiwan, but the cozy vibe and rotating selection of 12 beers make it worth it.

  • Shine Mood Waffle: The only proper waffle spot in Tainan! For 60 TWD, you get a big waffle with tons of sweet or savory options. Great for when you’re craving something different from Taiwanese food.

  • Loke Soke: For my shaved ice cravings!

 

If you want more local flavours, Tainan is also famous for danzai noodles, beef soup, and quirky dishes like coffin bread (a fried bread bowl filled with creamy stew).

Day Trips from Tainan

If you’re staying a bit longer, there are some easy half- or full-day trips:

  • Anping District: Visit Fort Zeelandia, Anping Old Street, and the Anping Tree House, a former warehouse swallowed by banyan roots.

  • Taijiang National Park: Great for mangrove boat rides, birdwatching, and seeing the Qigu Salt Mountain.

  • Ten Drum Cultural Village: A converted sugar factory with performances, art, and hands-on drumming workshops.

Final Thoughts

Tainan might not have the energy of Taipei or the mountain views of Alishan, but it’s a city where you slow down. Life here feels quieter and a little nostalgic, with its maze of temples, faded streets, and hidden gems. For me, it was less about the “must-see” attractions and more about simply wandering around with a camera, sitting in small cafes, and soaking in a slower rhythm of Taiwan life.

 

If you’re already traveling through southern Taiwan, Tainan makes for a nice stop, whether for a couple of days or a longer stay. It may not blow you away, but if you give it some time, its quiet charm sneaks up on you.